Inspiration

When I got back to Whitehorse last week, Rob and Loni said that they were going out to visit a carving camp out near/on Lake Laberge. Although I was anxious to get home to the cabin to check the mouse traps, I thought it would be a few hours that would be well spent so asked them to see if they could get me on the boat, and they did.

The Sundog Carving Camp is situated on the banks of the Yukon River, on an island that of course, is only accessible by boat. The camp (referred to as Fort Dugout by the youth) is 18 First Nations and non-FN youth who are working with master carver Wayne Price (Haines Alaska) to carve a traditional Chilkat cedar dugout canoe. A special place indeed. At that point, they had spent 22 days carving the canoe and had been at camp for one month. A tremendous committment not only to the canoe and to each other but to themselves...no drugs and alcohol, no parties, a summer in the bush learning traditional skills, spiritual healing and as is the case for all of us spending time away from the built environment...about themselves.

We went with a delegation of parents, grandparents and friends. To my surprise, there was also going to be a special visit to the camp by the dancers from Carcross. The carvers didn't have any idea that they were coming. The boat took them around the island so that they could drift in from upstream. We had just finished eating and were listening to Josh, one of the carvers, play a song he had written on his guitar. From a distance came this sound of drumming and singing...some people started to go to the water to see what was going on. "What is that?" "Do you hear that?". Soon the boat carrying the dancers (and some elders) came around the bend and into sight. Drums went down to the dock with the carvers and there was a beautiful and moving singing between the groups in Tlingit (so I didn't understand any of it). The dancers then asked to come on shore and the carvers welcomed them.

The sound of drums and Tlingit song over water, reverberating in the trees and off the banks was beautiful. The strong calls of these young men on shore reaching up to the sky, echoing back to them. For me, somebody from the South, on their land, it was very moving.

Once the dancers and more guests came on shore and everyone had been greeted and fed (I forgot to mention that there was a special meal this night...Pizza Hut delivers EVERYWHERE!), I was honored to be able to take part in a pretty special night. The Tlingit dancers danced and sang traditional songs...with the carvers and elders taking part. They shared the translation of some of the songs. Many of the carvers got up to join the dance in the end. There was a small fire (used to warm the drum skins) and the dust was coming up, people sweating and this powerful drumming and singing echoing back...a remarkable scene.

The next thing that happened was a ceremony to bless the canoe, to hear its story and what this group of carvers was accomplishing one wood chip at a time. To honour those before and to honour the work of these youth. I just tried to follow the lead in the dance around the canoe, to remember how to smudge, to respect and have an open heart to the traditions of the people whose land I was visiting.

A thought came to me during this, when I really was feeling like an outsider, like an observer...that I was so honoured to be welcomed to be part of this. That there was a time (and still is in some ways, in some places) that the opposite would never be imagined...that the Natives wouldn't be welcomed into the community celebrations, the sacred times and places of the generations that came before me. I think it is a powerful statement to the day when we can finally heal our collective wounds of a shameful history that dispite the way that they have been treated, First Nations communities continue to open their arms, their hearts and their land to us. I was really moved by that, and really honored to be part of this evening of celebration.

Those young carvers are doing something tremendous. I can't wait to see the cedar dugout come down the river with paddles dipping, drums beating, voices raising to the sky!

And as for this "few hour" field trip...well, next time I'll pack a sweater when it's a "few hours"...Yukon time!

Points North

Last week we spent a few days heading further North, into the communities to meet with First Nations and other people along the way.





We had a few places that we wanted to visit to do some water quality monitoring, as well, Maya was going to meet with Lands departments staff to discuss some of the key issues around contaminated sites and issues for discussion at the Summit. It was also a way for us to get a better idea of what the communities, River and people were like outside of Whitehorse.

We drove up to Dawson City the first day and camped overnight. The next morning we went in to the Tr'ondek Hwechin office for a meeting. We discussed a few issues around Dawson...a long history of mining (placer gold mining) and human settlement (historic landfills) has left a few spots that may be impacting the river and/or Settlement land (FN land). With some help we identified a few sites that would be good to stop at and have a look at some preliminary water quality measurements...downstream of old mines and landfills mostly. We also looked at the water in the River itself.

Dawson City is a great little town on the banks of the Yukon River. Like most of the Yukon, it's got a rich history from the Klondike days that were preceeded by the First Nations people living there. It is now a vital stop on the modern stampede of motorhomes cruising up to Alaska from all over...my how our adventures have changed! It is also well known for its annual music festival, coming up this weekend.



After Dawson we drove back down south to Mayo. Where they have a sign on the highway "Mayo-Heart of the Yukon" and stencilled underneath, as an afterthought, yet important consideration..."Good Fishing". We sayed at a glorious lake where, for the first time this summer we could actually enjoy the water long enough to put our whole selves in, to swim around and enjoy being submersed! The Yukon has a lot of lakes and rivers, but most are painfully cold to try to swim in (see a later entry about Atlin Lake). In the morning we went up to Keno City, an old mining town in the mountains. Like most communities built on a single resource, it had its heydey and is now a few homes, a museum and of course the leftover fortune seekers. We had coffee with the old boys at the Keno Cafe and then went out to monitor a nearby creek while we waited for the Mining Museum to open up. Keno is an absolutley beautiful setting, up in the back of a valley so close to the alpine. In the old days they lived up closer to the mines, in tents at the top of the mountain. View was great but can't imagine the winters. We toured the museum, which is very well kept and has some great exhibits by the way, and I imagined the generations of my family living in mining towns in the Kootenays...much the same way the Kenoites seeking the fortunes of mining had. The crisp photos of everyday life in the 50's in Keno really brought that to my mind.

Anyway, so here we are in Keno and we run across this spunky lady out walking her little dog. She started to tell us about the proposed mine and how the community (not an anti-development communtiy by any means) had been trying to have thier voice heard about concerns they had regarding the tailings, the mill site and the pollution that would be coming from the mine. It is a story that is common, about a small, rural community that wants to be part of the decision making process that is going to impact the water they drink, the food they eat and the livlihoods they make. This isn't even getting into any First Nations issues. At any rate, I think it's so important for rural communties whether Native or not, to be meaningfully involved in the decision making process and for people to have the capacity to engage in these processes. We ran around to a few places in Keno to monitor water and then we headed down the road to see if we could walk in and meet with somebody from Na-cho Nyuk Dun. Alas, the people we wanted to see were out, and the office was a bit busy as it looked like they were just moving in to a new building.

We continued driving South to Carmacks (stopping at Five Finger Rapids on the way). The Village of Carmacks had invited us to attend a Council meeting to discuss them signing on as an affiliated organization with the Watershed Council. On the drive Maya asked something about coffee and cookies at the meeting...I said no way, you never get food at a council meeting! Well, low and behold, the Village of Carmacks knows what is what and had a bag of cookies for their guests. I was proven wrong. They agreed to sign on as an affiliated organization, essentially saying that they support protection of the Yukon River. Our first Yukon non-Indigenous government signer!

The next day, after camping out roadside, we went to meet with the Little Salmon/Carmacks Land Manager. We spent a while discussing mining operations in the area, proposed mines and what Little Salmon/Carmacks was concerned about. It was good to get an idea of the scale of the development and what is proposed, as well as to put it into a landscape context.

I was also trying to meet with Youth Co-ordinators to do some outreach to youth to attend the Summit...met with mild success on that front as there were new co-ordinators and had trouble getting in touch before I went up (hey, it's summer and there are better things to do up here right now!).

Our little trip up North came to a close. Many, many kilometers, 3 nights in Maya's camper and some new friendships formed...well worth it!

A quick update before I head off on a work field trip to meet some people outside of Whitehorse!
Maya and I are taking "the Turtle"...her green Dodge Dakota with camper up to visit Dawson (Tr'ondek Hwech'in), Mayo (Na-Cho Nyuk Dun), Carmacks (Little Salmon) and Pelly Crossing (Selkirk).

My cousin Lauren was visiting this week, so it was a great time to be a tourist. Yesterday we spent the day in Skagway, Alaska...cruise ship capital of the North. Great day to be celebrating Independance Day with the locals and the tourists alike! Tug of war, arm wrestling, slow bike race, candy apples, cotton candy, ice cream, beer, lots of red white and blue. It was classic America Day as I imagined it.

The drive to Skagway from Whitehorse (which I have every intention of riding my roadbike on) is in short: stunning. It is just a short drive and as a bonus, I live about a half hour into it already. We saw a little bear on the side of the road at the Summit which we saw on the way back...still don't know if it was a grizzly or a blondish black bear. See the next post to enter your vote!

We also saw two adult looking grizzly on the tidal flats (right where the campgrounds are, how comforting), just outside of Skagway, on the way to Dyea. It was just like I've imagined Alaska and the BC Coast to be...end of a fjordlike channel...big river flowing into the ocean, tide flats with tall grass and a few grizzly bears. Absolutley gorgeous.

The most exciting part of the Skagway venture was the big purchase I made...of a hand powered coffee grinder. I am so excited to start making real coffee again, those who have witnessed my addiction and my general snobbery around coffee will understand that I have been a bit lost without electricity and a coffee grinder. Haven't tried it out yet though (see next few posts about where I've been this week...). Really won't want to leave the cabin now...